15 Jan Sandalwood: From Spiritual Traditions to Haute Perfumery
Sandalwood is one of the most treasured and beloved raw materials in the world of perfumery, thanks to its unique olfactory profile and its ability to serve as a persistent and fixative base note.
A Long Spiritual Tradition
Its millennia-old history is steeped in mystique. Native primarily to India and other regions of Asia, Indian sandalwood (Santalum album) has been used for centuries in Ayurvedic medicine, religious ceremonies, and the creation of fragrances. In ancient times, it was considered sacred and used to construct temples and craft religious artifacts, symbolizing a bridge between the physical world and the divine.
Today, this ingredient remains deeply rooted in spirituality. It is used to create aromatic pastes for Hindu rituals, applied to the forehead as a symbol of devotion and purity. It also plays a central role in funerary rites, where its fragrance is believed to help the soul achieve eternal peace. In Buddhism, sandalwood is associated with meditation and serenity, often burned as incense in temples to foster concentration.
Its virtues were also appreciated in ancient Chinese and Middle Eastern cultures. In recent decades, Australia has emerged as an important producer of sandalwood, with the cultivation of Australian sandalwood (Santalum spicatum) expanding significantly.
Indian Sandalwood and Australian Sandalwood
Indian sandalwood (Santalum album) is primarily found in the Karnataka and Tamil Nadu regions of India. Unfortunately, deforestation and overexploitation have pushed it to the brink of extinction. Strict Indian regulations have made legal trade more complex, but poaching and the black market persist.
Australian sandalwood (Santalum spicatum), cultivated mainly in Western Australia, offers a more sustainable alternative. It has a drier, slightly spicier profile compared to the sweeter Indian variety. Its sustainable cultivation and environmentally respectful harvesting practices make it an eco-friendly choice.
The Extraction Process of Sandalwood Essential Oil
Sandalwood essential oil is obtained through steam distillation of the heartwood, the part richest in aromatic compounds. This process requires great patience and high-quality raw material, as sandalwood trees must reach at least 15–20 years of age to achieve optimal oil concentration. This long maturation period contributes to sandalwood’s rarity and high cost.
The extracted oil is characterized by a golden-yellow color and dense viscosity, making it ideal for blending with other essences.
The Olfactory Profile of Sandalwood Essential Oil
Sandalwood’s scent is unique: warm, creamy, sweet, with woody and slightly earthy nuances. Its softness and refinement make it one of the most appreciated base notes in perfumery. Moreover, its fixative nature extends the longevity of fragrances, adding depth and harmony.
The ability to anchor compositions and enhance their persistence is due to santalol, a molecule that not only prolongs a perfume’s presence on the skin but also binds the various notes together, creating a balanced and harmonious effect.
Sandalwood pairs beautifully with a wide range of ingredients:
- Floral notes: Rose, jasmine, and ylang-ylang benefit from its creaminess.
- Spicy notes: Cardamom, cinnamon, and pepper are elevated by its softness.
- Resinous and balsamic notes: Incense, myrrh, and benzoin blend seamlessly with sandalwood for oriental and enveloping compositions.
- Fresh notes: Bergamot and lemon contrast delightfully with its warm character.
Sandalwood in Luxury Perfumery
Sandalwood is one of the most prized raw materials in haute perfumery. Whether used alone or in combination with other elements, it epitomizes timeless elegance and sophistication.
The Merchant of Venice captures sandalwood’s irresistible beauty in many of its luxury fragrances. It features prominently in Mystic Incense, an oriental scent where sandalwood merges with incense and spices, and in Blue Tea, where it adds warmth and depth to the fresh, delicate notes of blue tea. For those wishing to experience sandalwood in its purest form or paired with complementary notes, the Accordi Collection offers the opportunity to explore its multifaceted essence.