01 Apr The Rose in Perfumery: The Queen of Flowers
Among all the raw materials used in perfumery, few possess the timeless allure of the rose. Elegant, complex, and remarkably versatile, it has been celebrated for centuries as the true queen of flowers and remains one of the most beloved notes in fragrance creation. Its scent can be soft and romantic, yet also deep, spicy, and strikingly modern. It is no coincidence that the rose features in some of the most iconic compositions in the history of perfumery.
The Rose in Fragrance: From Antiquity to Today
The use of rose in perfumery dates back to ancient times. In the civilizations of Mesopotamia, Egypt, and Persia, it was already prized for the creation of perfumed oils, unguents, and aromatic waters. Ancient Egyptians incorporated rose extracts into religious rituals and the beauty treatments of the elite. According to tradition, Queen Cleopatra surrounded herself with rose petals and scented her chambers with fragrant oils derived from the flower.
The Greeks and Romans embraced it as well, using rose in scented baths, body oils, and ceremonial practices. It was, however, in the Arab world—between the 9th and 10th centuries—that the distillation of rose water was perfected, a breakthrough that greatly contributed to the widespread use of rose in perfumery. Since then, it has become one of the most precious and iconic ingredients in the art of fragrance.
A Flower Beyond Gender
For a long time, rose was almost exclusively associated with feminine fragrances. Its romantic imagery—linked to delicacy and sensuality—reinforced this perception. Today, however, rose is recognized as an exceptionally versatile note, increasingly present in men’s and unisex compositions.
In contemporary perfumery, rose can take on many different facets: fresh and green, spicy, woody, or dark and mysterious. When paired with ingredients such as oud, patchouli, incense, or spices, it becomes intense and sophisticated—perfectly suited to masculine fragrances. This evolution reflects the ongoing transformation of perfumery, moving beyond traditional boundaries between “for him” and “for her.”
The Rose Varieties Used in Perfumery
Not all roses smell the same. Only a select few varieties are used in perfumery, cultivated primarily in specific regions around the world. The most important are Rosa Damascena, Rosa Centifolia, and Rosa Alba.
Rosa Damascena (Damask Rose), grown mainly in Bulgaria, Turkey, and Iran, is one of the most prized varieties. Its scent is rich, warm, and slightly spicy, with honeyed nuances.
Rosa Centifolia (May Rose), native to Grasse in France and often called the “hundred-petaled rose,” offers a softer, more velvety and sweet profile.
Rosa Alba is rarer and more delicate, with a fresh, subtly green scent.
Each variety contributes unique characteristics, making rose an extraordinarily complex raw material.
Rose Essential Oil and Absolute
In perfumery, rose is primarily used in two forms: essential oil and absolute.
Rose essential oil is obtained through steam distillation of fresh petals. It is one of the most expensive raw materials in the world—up to 3–4 tons of petals are required to produce just one kilogram. The result is a pure, radiant essence with a slightly fresh character.
Rose absolute, on the other hand, is extracted using solvents. This method captures a broader olfactory spectrum, yielding a richer, warmer, and more velvety extract.
Many perfumers use both forms together to create a more complete and multifaceted rose accord.
Red, Pink, and White Roses in Perfumery
The symbolic color of the rose can also evoke different olfactory interpretations.
Red rose expresses intensity and sensuality, often paired with oriental, amber, or spicy notes.
Pink rose represents the most luminous and romantic facet, fresh and delicate, commonly found in classic floral fragrances.
White rose suggests purity and elegance, with a lighter, more transparent scent often combined with white musks and green notes.
These interpretations do not always correspond to different botanical varieties, but rather to the accords crafted by the perfumer.
Rosa Moceniga: A Venetian Story
Among roses tied to Italian heritage, Rosa Moceniga stands out. Named after one of Venice’s historic noble families, this variety was developed and dedicated to the Mocenigo lineage, whose Venetian palace now houses the Museum of Perfume.
Characterized by its deep pink hue and refined, elegant fragrance, Rosa Moceniga embodies the tradition of Venetian perfumery. It symbolizes the enduring connection between Venice, the historic trade of essences, and the art of fragrance. For centuries, La Serenissima was a vital crossroads for spices, resins, and aromatic materials arriving from the East.
Rose Creations by The Merchant of Venice
The Merchant of Venice pays tribute to this rich heritage through a range of fragrances that celebrate the rose. In these creations, the flower is interpreted with elegance and a contemporary sensibility, often combined with precious ingredients inspired by the ancient trade routes of Venice.
In these compositions, rose is no longer just a romantic symbol, but a noble and sophisticated ingredient capable of telling a story that weaves together tradition, craftsmanship, and perfume culture.
Rosa Moceniga opens with a fresh, luminous blend of Sicilian bergamot and blackcurrant, adding a subtly fruity and citrusy touch. At its heart, the rose unfolds alongside magnolia and pink lotus, creating a delicate, almost aquatic bouquet. The base reveals soft warmth, with musk, vanilla absolute, crystal amber, and white cedarwood adding depth and smoothness.
Rosa Moceniga Elixir begins with a radiant accord of pear, blood orange, and lemon, bringing brightness and vitality. The heart is a true tribute to the rose, where different varieties intertwine to form a rich, layered bouquet. The base is warm and sensual, featuring Madagascar vanilla, musk, and amber woods, leaving a lingering and enveloping trail.
While the original expresses the delicate freshness of the Venetian rose, Rosa Moceniga Elixir offers a more intense and sensual interpretation. In both fragrances, the rose takes center stage—once again proving its enduring ability to inspire contemporary perfumery with its timeless elegance.